Choosing running shoes
Shoes are the one piece of running kit worth taking time over. The right pair is simply the one that fits your foot and feels comfortable when you run, and this guide explains how to find it.
Start with the surface
Running shoes are built for a type of ground. Choose the category first, then the shoe.
- Road shoes have a fairly smooth outsole and plenty of cushioning for tarmac and pavement. They are also fine on dry park paths and treadmills.
- Trail shoes have deeper lugs for grip on mud, grass and rock, a tougher upper and often a firmer feel. Deep lugs are uncomfortable and wear quickly on tarmac.
- Hybrid or road-to-trail shoes have shallower lugs and suit routes that mix pavement with canal towpaths and firm trails.
Getting the fit right
Fit matters more than any feature. Feet swell during a run, so running shoes are usually worn half a size to a full size larger than everyday shoes.
- Length: allow about a thumb's width between your longest toe and the end of the shoe. Black or bruised toenails are a sign of shoes that are too short.
- Width: your toes should be able to spread. If the side of your foot bulges over the edge of the sole, try a wide fitting.
- Heel: it should feel held, without slipping up and down as you walk.
- Midfoot: snug but not tight, with no pressure on the top of the foot when laced.
Try shoes on later in the day, when your feet are at their largest, and wear the socks you run in. Jog in them if the shop allows it. A shoe that needs breaking in is the wrong shoe.
Cushioning and stack height
Stack height is the amount of material between your foot and the ground. Shoes with a high stack feel soft and protective, which many runners like for long and easy runs. Shoes with less cushioning are lighter and give more feel for the ground. Neither is correct. Softer is not automatically better, and a very soft shoe can feel unstable on uneven ground or around corners.
Heel-to-toe drop
Drop is the difference in height between the heel and the forefoot, measured in millimetres. Traditional running shoes have a drop of around 8 to 12 mm. Lower drop shoes, from 0 to 6 mm, put more work through the calves and Achilles tendons. If you want to move to a lower drop, do it gradually over several weeks, starting with short runs.
Neutral and stability shoes
Pronation is the natural inward roll of the foot as it lands. Stability shoes use firmer foam or guiding structures on the inner side to limit that roll, and neutral shoes do not.
Many specialist running shops offer gait analysis, where you are filmed running on a treadmill. It can be a helpful starting point, but treat it as guidance and not a diagnosis. Comfort when running is a good test. If a shoe feels natural and stable, it is probably suitable for you. If you have recurring pain, see a physiotherapist or podiatrist.
Carbon plates and racing shoes
Racing shoes with a stiff plate and very light, springy foam are designed to be efficient at speed. They cost more, wear out faster and are less stable than everyday trainers. They are a reasonable choice for race day once you are running regularly, but they are not needed to enjoy a 5K or to finish a half marathon. If you buy a pair, do a few faster training runs in them before the race.
How long shoes last
Most running shoes last roughly 300 to 500 miles (500 to 800 kilometres). Heavier runners, rough surfaces and lightweight racing shoes all shorten that. Signs that a pair is finished include:
- the outsole worn smooth, or through to the foam beneath,
- deep creases in the midsole and a flat, dead feel underfoot,
- the heel counter collapsed or the upper torn,
- new aches after runs that used to feel fine.
Many GPS watches and running apps can log the distance on each pair, which removes the guesswork. See GPS running watches for more.
One pair or two?
One pair is enough to start. If you run four or more times a week, alternating two pairs gives the foam time to recover between runs and means you always have a dry pair in wet weather. A common combination is a cushioned everyday shoe and a lighter one for faster sessions and races.
Shoes and race day
Never race in new shoes. Buy any replacement at least three to four weeks before an event and run in it several times, including one long run. If you are following one of the training plans, the middle of the plan is a good time to check the mileage on your current pair. In cold and muddy months, the winter running kit guide covers grip and waterproofing, and the race day kit guide covers socks and everything else you wear.